Perspective...Beer and Arkansas

Perspective

1. 1.

   the art of drawing solid objects on a two-dimensional surface so as to give the right impression of their height, width, depth, and position in relation to each other when viewed from a particular point.

   "a perspective drawing"

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2. 2.

   a particular attitude toward or way of regarding something; a point of view.

   "most guidebook history is written from the editor's perspective."

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   synonyms: outlook,viewpoint, POV, standpoint, position, stance,stand, frame of mind, frame of reference, approach. Example: "her perspective on things had changed" Perspective is a funny thing. It is so personal, that many times we are not able to think clearly and see things correctly. We need time and space to see things (as in definition 1), to ensure that our personal position, (definition 2), does not weigh to heavily on the facts. That is no easy task. Due to its personal nature, we have a hard time letting go of our biases. Silly Humans. Lets go back. I could start 12 years ago when I moved here, but, truth be told, we don't have to go back that far. Lets start in 2010. There was only one in-state production brewery, there were less than 5 total. The shelves at the local bottle shops were in a sad state, covered mostly in macro beers from "The Big 3." Any out of state craft/import product was shoved to the side, on the floor, out of the cooler and gathering dust. If it even existed, as most liquor stores knew where their bread was buttered. Its Arkansas, stock the Jim, Jack, Crown and cases of adjunct lager as water backs for those and you're golden. Yum. In 2010, Northwest Arkansas had a new brewery emerge. With a craft beer craze across the country spreading like wildfire, a River Valley native, living in NWA, tossed aside his corporate job for the brewing life. It started with contract brewing then his own brick and mortar, followed by bottles, cans and 73 (maybe a touch less) off site pubs. They've also expanded in Missouri, retracted from there, tried Mexico, and just recently moved in to Tennessee. They are, for better or worse, depending on your...perspective...in many ways the face of Arkansas craft beer. Or were. That brewery, since opening and proving we had a craft thirsty demographic, opened the floodgates for many other local entrepreneurs to give their mash paddle a go. Northwest Arkansas as a collective has ballooned to more than 10 breweries plus a cidery and Little Rock is not far behind, with several other rural areas adding to the mix. Less than 5 to 20 plus in state in 6 years is quite the boom. The numbers bear out that the population is not only supporting them, but begging for more. The state and the consumer have both benefited from the added selections. Economically it has provided jobs and consumers are, by and large supporting all of these ventures. It has also drawn interest from large, national craft brands, the biggest domino being Founders Brewing from Michigan just over two years ago. After getting distribution from them, other stalwarts such as Green Flash, Bells, Lagunitas, and Stone have joined the fray. This is, in my estimation, all a good thing. We have international, national, regional, and local breweries jockeying for position where once Blue Moon and Corona dominated the cooler. The shelves that once boasted Sam Adams and Shiner Bocks as sole craft representation have been replaced with a plethora of breweries that did not exist even a couple years ago; or if they did, acquiring them was not something that could be done in state. Bottom line: We've grown.   Now here are the problems with that growth.    Quality has slipped. Really slipped. Of course the big craft companies have QA and QC standards that are beyond what the local guys can touch, so usually, they're okay on things such as infections, half fills, exploding bottles, et al.  Usually. Goose Island, former craft brewery, now masquerading as an independent wing of the Evil Empire, has had to recall more than half of last year's Bourbon County Stout due to infections. That they blamed on Chinese bottles. Uh huh. I think the answer is probably more close to home. When you are purchased by an large corporation, who has investors, who presumably want returns, you cut corners. You get sloppy. You use cheaper ingredients. You move production out of original state to be made in a Budweiser facility. Of course things will change. Things ALWAYS change.   The shelves have also gathered a number of regional craft breweries who are newer, looking to expand out of their home state and find a burgeoning craft market without too many competitors. While some of these have come in and been a hit and a welcome surprise, far too often I see no turnover and poor ratings. A 40 aggregate rated IPA just isn't going to sell. So it sits. Then it gets moved to the pick 6 shelf. Next thing you know, that 40 rated IPA is a year old, getting rated even worse. Its an uphill battle without the big money to do an all out assault into a new state. Without that major push, brands come here with no recognition or fanfare, get tried by a handful of us adventurous types, and then forgotten. It is a cutthroat business and a harsh reality. Still others, mainly local, with far less funding, have major quality control issues due to various reasons, both verified and assumed. Several in state breweries...well, most in state production breweries have had exploding cans on shelves or in refrigerators. The blame has gone towards can lining, bad yeast, unintentional shipment, "distributor error," and on and on. Obviously there is a learning curve, and with growth and expansion new challenges arise. I will say, that more than one of the breweries I've personally had exploding cans from, has made right. With replacement beer, sincere apologies and even follow up letters with reasons. I know one even pulled a whole batch of beer back. That is admirable and shows a dedication to customers and craft. Issues arise with others however who never take responsibility and instead, rely on tired excuses that most true craft customers have grown weary of. Half full bottles, infected bottles with pellicle showing, explosions in store; there is a bigger issue here. Many customers firmly couched in the industry have simply moved on. The issue for me is the fact that too many consumers think that it is okay. With the explosion of this industry we love, we have gathered market share like a downhill snowball. We've brought in folks from all walks and most are committed to never going macro again. However, there are so many out there still learning, and if they start to think that average beer is good beer, just because of its price point, it says its local, or craft, or small batch, or whatever--we'll have a problem. We'll have a large group of craft beer that isn't craft at all. It will just be smaller batches of mediocre beer. Mind you, I don't mean mediocre in the sense of whatever style you like, I am simply for these purposes referring to the basic quality of the beer. Lack of attenuation, infection, under filled or out of date product. These issues need to be solved first and then we can get into a bad recipe/good recipe/bad execution discussion. That is a whole 'nother issue. We as consumers, spending our hard earned money on traveling, trading, brewery visits, or even just buying at your local store deserve better. We deserve products we can be proud of, that we can share and brag about. We deserve better than corner cutting and poor packaging standards. In states with thriving craft beer communities, brewers and breweries are held accountable, and the good ones learn and grow from it. We need to, as a community, start to hold the breweries accountable for the beer we buy. Even when we are biased towards some breweries, for whatever reason, we know that there are better local breweries out there. If you love one, help them get better. Hold the distributors accountable for the beer they bring into state and stock; old and not selling needs to be dropped to make room for newer things.  We've gone from 48th to 38th in just a couple years of breweries per capita (peruse that link while there, lots of good info).That is a good thing. We've come quite a ways in a short time. Now we need to take the next step and have great beer coming from those breweries, not just average quality. I believe the potential is there from most. Is the drive? Is the willingness to adapt and push the envelope moving forward? I hope so. Accidents happen. We all understand that. Its how you move on from those accidents that determines staying power. I would love for all the breweries we have to continue to thrive; to be challenged by each other and by new breweries, both local and otherwise, coming to market. A rising tide raises all ships, and there is plenty of room out there for growth (Vermont has 44 breweries and 1/5 our size. Highest per capita in US).  If we shift our perspective slightly and focus on quality as 1a and growth as 1b, we all win. Lets just make sure it is growth in the right direction...not just for the sake of growth.  Cheers, Chris

Apple Blossom: A Budding Brewery

One of the newer players in the Northwest Arkansas craftbeer market is Apple Blossom Brewing Company. Just 9 months removed from their August 21, 2013 opening, they've set themselves apart from the rest of the newer breweries by being a full service restaurant as well. A risky move, but they're succeeding on both fronts. 

On this particular gorgeous Spring day in Northwest Arkansas, I've been afforded the opportunity to sit down and pick the brain of Ching Mong, one of the managing partners, about their beer, their philosophy, what's coming up, and the overall craftbeer scene in the region. Oh, and of course try some of brewer Nathan Traw's new offerings, starting with Unwind Wheat. This is no ordinary wheat, it's not straw colored, it's a rich mahogany. With crazy aromas and flavors, and a zesty citrus finish, it lines up perfectly with their commercial description:

 

         "We used Chamomile as a substitute for bitter orange peel and more balanced fermentation profile than other commercial varieties. We added Chamomile in two different stages of the process, using both hot and cold sides of the facility. Over 6 lbs of chamomile, 4 lbs of coriander, & 1 lb each of lavender and lemongrass went into this beer. We roasted the coriander prior to using it to bring out the oils for easier extraction. This gives it a big orange citrus flavor, with a hint of lavender and lemongrass in the aroma. A very delicate beer that intensifies in flavor as it warms. Pairs well with just about anything."

 

With this delicious beer in front of me, and Ching on the other side of their massive bar--hand crafted in Ireland no less--I get ready to ask my questions. Conversation flows, and it's less interview, more regular bar chat. Although an owner, he is very hands on and even more charismatic. We start by talking size of the operation, and he explains to me that though they have six fermentation tanks currently, they are in the process of ordering three more and nearly doubling output. They already keep twelve of their own hand crafted beers flowing, and plans have them adding another copper drop down and adding four to six more lines in. He quickly mentions they have plans to add guest beers to the their line up, which drives me right to the next question:

Do you think the amount of local craft breweries is good for business--rising tide lifts all boats--or has the competition been a struggle?

 

Well, apparently, there is no bad blood between any of the guys on the local scene, and furthermore, Ching adds, "the competition is pushing them all to be better." They even have tentative plans to do a collaboration brew with Tanglewood Branch Beer Co from the south side of Fayettevile. No ideas yet, as they are still brainstorming, but it is good to see some friendly competition and camaraderie amongst the brewers.

 

The only real problems, he notes when pressed, is "simply keeping up with demand." Which is why I suppose they are looking for those extra tanks. That leads me to ask if they have plans to move into full distribution from doing it themselves. They are hoping to be bottling or canning "within a year or so" and there is a handshake agreement with Glidewell to start moving their product into restaurants very soon. The impending assistance with distribution is likely the next step that will allow some of the owners to be less 'hands-on' and focus more on the steps for future growth. 

 

What's nice to hear as well, is that the entire original team is still there, with Nathan overseeing every brew. With his background working at Mother's in Missouri and Red Lodge Ales in Montana, he has a strong pedigree. Ching even says that soon, with expansion, they'll be having to hire an assistant brewer to help keep up with demand.

This brings me to order another beer, as my appetizers have now arrived--beer cheese dip served with homemade chips and  Fayette-Weiss fries. Each are made with the house flagship beer, Fayetteweiss, a "gateway beer for non-craft folks" made in a lager style, but clean and pure with no fillers. Both are delicious and I choose a Belgian IPA to accompany,the Wild Boar. It's toasty and nutty with mild European hops, and that classic Trappist finish.

The food is excellent, and it is evident that it's perfect to accompany the beers they offer, as is the case with most of their plates. In speaking with Ching, I get a serious sense from him that they have a real plan. I mention this to him and he notes his other restaurant ventures, and how he has learned from mistakes and incorporated ideas to help further ventures. Over reaching too soon is far and wide known to be the cause of bar/restaurant failures, and here, at Apple Blossom, he notes "we have a plan, to build a base before taking the next step."  These are things this customer likes to hear, especially with lofty bar dreams of my own someday. 

 

It seems that with such a beautiful facility, quality food and beer, and a management/ownership with a vision, Apple Blossom is not only a player in the ever burgeoning craftbeer scene, they are a leader. The risk of adding full service has set them apart, and has paid off. I think that not only will Apple Blossom  Brewing Company be around for years to come, they will be paving the way and setting the tone for future ventures. 

Cheers, 

Chris

Homebrew Ramblings

So here's the thing. Just in case you weren't aware, I like good beer. I mean, I really like it. A lot.
I travel for it. My wife travels for it. (Actually, supposedly she is traveling for work, but I get beer when she returns, so...) I seek out others who enjoy it. Places that serve it. Books about it. I like to talk about it almost as much as like to drink it. Okay, that's a little far, but you get my point.

All that interest though, had never led me to consider home brewing my own. My aforementioned wife however,  felt compelled to make sure she was a full time beer-widow, and purchased me the full on set up for our 6th anniversary. Not just beer in a box, she went and got a full component kit. And spent lots of her aforementioned hard earned beer money. What pressure! What was I to do? I mean, now I am compelled, nay required by a monetary debt to brew beer! Oh the humanity.

I haven't brewed a lot: 6 solo/lead batches where I was assisted by various people (including my father on Father's Day weekend), assisted on 2 with a local team (Bearded Duck, Matt Orcutt & Ron Drake), collaborated with a guy from our state beer group the morning of a tasting, and am now collaborating with a buddy in town on a regular schedule (Right Side Brewing, Ryan Paskiewicz, 2 batches in).  They also haven't all been winners, some have been kinda bad honestly. But they've been drinkable, and there is a rewarding feeling drinking something you've spent multiple hours brewing, multiple weeks watching, and multiple weeks waiting to try after bottling/kegging. Sometimes it's a let down. Sometimes is surprising and awesome. Sometimes you wonder where that flavor even came from. And sometimes you just don't care, and happily drink your 4-5 gallons way quicker than you should.

It's time consuming. It's not a ton cheaper, but I guess that depends on your average expenditure. It can be tedious. It is FAR more enjoyable with a partner. Also with 'some' beer shared during. Emphasis on some, because, well, quality control. It's messy. Sanitizing, set-up, break down, clean up is more than half the job. You are required to have facial hair of epic proportions. While that's not 100% true look around, it's kind of an unwritten rule. Or maybe it's directly proportional to quality. Hmm. Maybe I need to study that more.

What's the point you ask? Ummm, I forgot...I was enjoying a homebrew. Just teasing. I mean, I am having a homebrew, I just didn't forget.

It's not the glamorous life these titans of the craftbeer industry lead. Many walk around smelling like malt and grains and hops. So make sure to appreciate the beer you choose to drink. Life is too short to make poor beer choices. Whatever your choices are. Get on social media, find the brewery, thank them. Tell them how much you enjoy the fruits of their labor. Visit a brewery and see the processes.

And if you decide to brew...take pride, take care, and enjoy.

Cheers,
C